014 - WORKER RESTING ON BALES OF COTTON, THONAKAHA, KORHOGO, CÔTE D’IVOIRE (9°28’ N, 5°36’ W).
In the 19th century, West Africa received its first cotton seeds of the Gossypium hirsutum variety, which originated in Central America. This remains the most widely cultivated variety of cotton in the world. At the beginning of the 20th century this raw material represented 80 percent of the world textile market. Today, following the invention of synthetic fabrics, it is 47 percent. Cotton cultivation and manufacture employs one billion people worldwide but the fall in prices—which have halved since 1995—is having a serious effect on some countries, particularly in West and Central Africa. The cotton industry has high environmental and social costs. Cotton growing accounts for one quarter of the pesticides used worldwide and employs a largely casual workforce. In addition to fair-trade supply chains, which ensure a higher price for producers and working conditions that conform with international regulations, some governments are urging a reduction in the quantity of pesticides used.